Tisha B'Av in Bangkok
Except for the myriad of Israelis here, I have rarely felt more in חו"ל. Bangkok. Polluted, smelly, humid and kinda gross, yet not a bad place to spend 9 B'Av.
On a morning jog through the crowded streets and narrow sidewalk alleys of Bangkok's numerous rotted wood shanty-towns which pop up off many main avenues, I decided that this year Tisha B'Av would mean a whole lot more.
So I had my pre-fast seudah of Pad Thai, curry and banana shake and made my way to Chabad.
It was interesting to see which Israelis observed this day or mourning, and for the many for whom it did not make an appearance on their calendar or consciousness. I listened to megilat Eicha chanted by the Chabad Rabbi, and stuck around for the text study.
He taught the stoires of Kamtza-Bar Kamtza, and of Yochanan Be Zakai asking for Yavneh, famous stories that I knew well, which was nice to read them again tonight from Masechet Gittin.
During the power point virtual tour of the Beit HaMikdash I found myself explaining things to some Israeli guys, and then being asked to explain to the whole group. Few of the Israelis (including the Chabadnikim and Rabbi) had a strong grasp of the Jewish History timeline. My personal highlight was demonstrating how the stones of the Beit HaMikdash were rolled in to place, using three of the Rabbi's daughters as props for this well known Southern Wall schtick.
I usually fast on this day in Israel, yet being outside of Israel makes it all the more relevant for me. On a day when the outside surroundings feel so foreign, it's nice to sit, fast, do some internet and reflect on my relationship to my country from afar.
In reflecting, I came across this article, which I think is important.
In a personal op-ed, Nadav Shragai opines here: Why I will visit the Temple Mount on Tisha B'av on the importance of national narrative. In times when the Jewish identity of the state is called into question, I think it is quite important to connect to this day.
In a few hours I will break my fast and leave Bangkok. I will board a 16 hour bus back to Krabi to have a go at climbing on the exquisite limestone. We'll see how I do, and will be sure to update again soon.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
In Search of Paradise...
We left Chiang Mai and flew to Phuket (pronounced "Pook-ket" not "fuck-it"). After a two-hour flight we took a four hour bus ride through a beautiful sunset landscape. Through jungle terrain and jutting limestone karsts we made it to the port city of Suratthani to board our night boat for the islands.
We were slightly apprehensive of the night boat, but with wood floor panels lined with mattresses and pillows and a few friendly backpackers turned out to be great.
We arrived on Koh Samui, got settled in a cheap hotel which was nice with , cable, fridge, and pool. Koh Samui is beautiful and hot, ad has some exquisite beaches. The town of Chaweng is very built up and reminded me of Cancun. We drove around on our motorbike and were essentially there for Chabad, or a place for Shabbat dinner.
Chabad is very interesting. I have mentioned it before during our time in Chiang Mai, and I appreciate the services they offer. What is more interesting than the Chabadniks (who were basically predictable) is the Israeli sociology. A full melting pot of Israeli society, with families, post-army backpackers, honeymooners, short term holiday vacationers, and a few local sun-washed yordim. During the davening, it was apparent that most felt comforatble in a synagogue setting, and it was done in a normal Israeli (mizrachi) nusah. It was at dinner that the painful divisions in society became evident.
We had previously sat with a nice dati family from Nataf, two ex-Yeshiva girls from Kiryat Malachi, and now that the flood of diners entered the restaurant area we found ourselves sitting with obviously secular Jews with little tolerance for ritual or basic familiarity with the Erev Shabbat ceremony.
With camera, cell phone and cigarettes in full view on the table, we returned after hand washing to notice that many of the salatim (first course) were consumed. Sitting quietly and patiently - ok, I wanted to gesture politely to signal that there was one more bracha before we chow, but Mara gave me a glare that said 'get off your high horse' and just leave them alone' - we waited for motzi and the rest of the food to be served. Two sisters in their 30s, two female officers on furlough, and two recent law graduates, all made conversation and exchanged stories. We were particularly intrigued by a couple, who was reported to be just friends. She - a late 20s, nachalot resident, married with no ring. He - an almost thirty, haredi, Ashdodite. They, sharing a room, and partakers of a Friday night shopping spree. Conclusion: sketchy.
I was annoyed at some Israelis who couldn't bring themselves to indulge in zmirot and dvar torah in exchange for the free meal they were getting, and found myself making an attempt to sing along, and engage in words of Torah.
Mara, justly, reminded me that I was not the madrich or staff person here.
~~~~~~~
After a nice but overpriced boat tour of the Au Thong archipelago (including snorkeling, Kayaking, a short hike, and nerve-racking wave ridden boat ride), we made our way to Ko Phangan.
Despite the pouring rain and night in a cheap hostel, we scoured the island for the best deal and found a 600 baht/night ($20) hotel with fridge, cable tv, aircon, hot shower, and pool (with swim up bar) right on the beach. Ahh, we could finally relax. Our time was now spent between the pool, the beach, restaurants showing movies and round the clock episodes of "Friends", cards, and a little shopping. At night, watched more movies, and drank buckets of alcohol on the beach while watching fire shows (Thai guys baton twirling flame ensconsed sticks) with our new friends Oren and Liat.
I bumped in to Yarko from my maale adumim volleyball team, and we ran the beach courts for an afternoon. Life here was good.
We were now ready to head on for Krabi Ko Phi Phi, and the rest.
After a little accident with a rode bike, we made our way through the rain to another night boat.
Traveling in Thailand is defnitely easy and convenient, however we were never sure when the scam was coming. Our bus to Krabi left us at a bus station in the middle of nowhere now being asked to pay more money for a ride to our destination. In truth it wasn't too big of a deal, and let that be the (2nd) worse thing that happens to us.
Krabi (Au Nang beach) is probably one of the most beautiful places I have been. With massive limestone karsts jutting out from the ocean and pointing throught landscape, it's no wonder that the adhacebnt Rai lay beach has become the far east's rock climbing Mecca.
We spent a few days there, and then a couple of less fun days on the picture-esque but pricy Ko Phi Phi.
We decided to ditch Ko Phi Phi for Khao Sok national park. Staying in a much more affordable place we were greeted by monkeys on our balcony which was cool.
The next day we hiked through the national park rain forest, and spent most of the time under a heavy down pour. So, that's why they call it a "RAIN forest".
From there we went on to Khao Lok, where we ended our honeymoon with a stay the 5-star Le Meridien resort. There we pampered oursleves with a fantastic room, rain forest shower, good cable, pools, beach and work out room (basically all the things that nice hotels have for those who have been, and that backpackers are in awe.) We had some serious relaxing, windsurfing, yoga and the sun even came out a bit.
It was really the perfect end to our 5 weeks sojourn in Thailand. After a few days, we made our way back to Phuket, and flew to Bangkok. In Bangkok we ran errands, shopped at the largest market in Asia - available only on the weekends - and lots of internet.
Sadly, Mara departed for New York, and now I am on my own. More to come.
We left Chiang Mai and flew to Phuket (pronounced "Pook-ket" not "fuck-it"). After a two-hour flight we took a four hour bus ride through a beautiful sunset landscape. Through jungle terrain and jutting limestone karsts we made it to the port city of Suratthani to board our night boat for the islands.
We were slightly apprehensive of the night boat, but with wood floor panels lined with mattresses and pillows and a few friendly backpackers turned out to be great.
We arrived on Koh Samui, got settled in a cheap hotel which was nice with , cable, fridge, and pool. Koh Samui is beautiful and hot, ad has some exquisite beaches. The town of Chaweng is very built up and reminded me of Cancun. We drove around on our motorbike and were essentially there for Chabad, or a place for Shabbat dinner.
Chabad is very interesting. I have mentioned it before during our time in Chiang Mai, and I appreciate the services they offer. What is more interesting than the Chabadniks (who were basically predictable) is the Israeli sociology. A full melting pot of Israeli society, with families, post-army backpackers, honeymooners, short term holiday vacationers, and a few local sun-washed yordim. During the davening, it was apparent that most felt comforatble in a synagogue setting, and it was done in a normal Israeli (mizrachi) nusah. It was at dinner that the painful divisions in society became evident.
We had previously sat with a nice dati family from Nataf, two ex-Yeshiva girls from Kiryat Malachi, and now that the flood of diners entered the restaurant area we found ourselves sitting with obviously secular Jews with little tolerance for ritual or basic familiarity with the Erev Shabbat ceremony.
With camera, cell phone and cigarettes in full view on the table, we returned after hand washing to notice that many of the salatim (first course) were consumed. Sitting quietly and patiently - ok, I wanted to gesture politely to signal that there was one more bracha before we chow, but Mara gave me a glare that said 'get off your high horse' and just leave them alone' - we waited for motzi and the rest of the food to be served. Two sisters in their 30s, two female officers on furlough, and two recent law graduates, all made conversation and exchanged stories. We were particularly intrigued by a couple, who was reported to be just friends. She - a late 20s, nachalot resident, married with no ring. He - an almost thirty, haredi, Ashdodite. They, sharing a room, and partakers of a Friday night shopping spree. Conclusion: sketchy.
I was annoyed at some Israelis who couldn't bring themselves to indulge in zmirot and dvar torah in exchange for the free meal they were getting, and found myself making an attempt to sing along, and engage in words of Torah.
Mara, justly, reminded me that I was not the madrich or staff person here.
~~~~~~~
After a nice but overpriced boat tour of the Au Thong archipelago (including snorkeling, Kayaking, a short hike, and nerve-racking wave ridden boat ride), we made our way to Ko Phangan.
Despite the pouring rain and night in a cheap hostel, we scoured the island for the best deal and found a 600 baht/night ($20) hotel with fridge, cable tv, aircon, hot shower, and pool (with swim up bar) right on the beach. Ahh, we could finally relax. Our time was now spent between the pool, the beach, restaurants showing movies and round the clock episodes of "Friends", cards, and a little shopping. At night, watched more movies, and drank buckets of alcohol on the beach while watching fire shows (Thai guys baton twirling flame ensconsed sticks) with our new friends Oren and Liat.
I bumped in to Yarko from my maale adumim volleyball team, and we ran the beach courts for an afternoon. Life here was good.
We were now ready to head on for Krabi Ko Phi Phi, and the rest.
After a little accident with a rode bike, we made our way through the rain to another night boat.
Traveling in Thailand is defnitely easy and convenient, however we were never sure when the scam was coming. Our bus to Krabi left us at a bus station in the middle of nowhere now being asked to pay more money for a ride to our destination. In truth it wasn't too big of a deal, and let that be the (2nd) worse thing that happens to us.
Krabi (Au Nang beach) is probably one of the most beautiful places I have been. With massive limestone karsts jutting out from the ocean and pointing throught landscape, it's no wonder that the adhacebnt Rai lay beach has become the far east's rock climbing Mecca.
We spent a few days there, and then a couple of less fun days on the picture-esque but pricy Ko Phi Phi.
We decided to ditch Ko Phi Phi for Khao Sok national park. Staying in a much more affordable place we were greeted by monkeys on our balcony which was cool.
The next day we hiked through the national park rain forest, and spent most of the time under a heavy down pour. So, that's why they call it a "RAIN forest".
From there we went on to Khao Lok, where we ended our honeymoon with a stay the 5-star Le Meridien resort. There we pampered oursleves with a fantastic room, rain forest shower, good cable, pools, beach and work out room (basically all the things that nice hotels have for those who have been, and that backpackers are in awe.) We had some serious relaxing, windsurfing, yoga and the sun even came out a bit.
It was really the perfect end to our 5 weeks sojourn in Thailand. After a few days, we made our way back to Phuket, and flew to Bangkok. In Bangkok we ran errands, shopped at the largest market in Asia - available only on the weekends - and lots of internet.
Sadly, Mara departed for New York, and now I am on my own. More to come.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Why Won’t Obama Talk to Israel?
Even though I'm in Thailand and should be writing about that, I wanted to comment on this excellent article byAluf Benn in the NYT. He really just nailed it, and put things in perspective. Everyone thinks that Obama is a God-send - and don't be mistaken, I like him a lot - but let's face it, he has to figure out the basic principles of this conflict and understand the Israeli-Jewish narrative. The Cairo speech was, as a matter of fact, incredibly flawed, and unfortunately his diplomatic and play-nice tendencies are being seen as appeasement to those who call for Israel's destruction.
It seems that Ron Grossman of the Chicago Tribune (Getting prickly when it's about Israel)
gets it as well.
More on Thailand later...
Even though I'm in Thailand and should be writing about that, I wanted to comment on this excellent article byAluf Benn in the NYT. He really just nailed it, and put things in perspective. Everyone thinks that Obama is a God-send - and don't be mistaken, I like him a lot - but let's face it, he has to figure out the basic principles of this conflict and understand the Israeli-Jewish narrative. The Cairo speech was, as a matter of fact, incredibly flawed, and unfortunately his diplomatic and play-nice tendencies are being seen as appeasement to those who call for Israel's destruction.
It seems that Ron Grossman of the Chicago Tribune (Getting prickly when it's about Israel)
gets it as well.
More on Thailand later...
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Swine Times
We were quite anxious about going to stay with the Lisu Hilltribe, and weren't sure what to expect. We settled in to their guest room, and began to... learn.
I ventured towards a massage course with Susannon the Lisu matriarch of our host family. Her massage to me was nice, and then her brief instruction of "ok, now you do." Awkward, to say the least.
As I finsihed giving my massage to a 50-something Lisu woman, I hobbled down the stairs to find Mara hunched over a work table slaving away at what was to become a beautiful silver ring. Mara worked with Albert (Susannon's husband of 5 years). A 68 year-old American Expat, Albert brings his incredible skills as a psychotherapist, professional jewelry designer, yoga and meditation instructor, engineer, organic farmer, and business developer to the Lisu village. Of all his skills, speaking Lisu is not one of them. And Susannon, a mother of many, grandmother to even more, holistic healer, masseuse, clothing designer, rice farmer, cook and more doesn't speak English.
I guess with all those skills who needs a common language???
So Albert comes to us, and says "hey, you're in luck!" We were, to say the least, cautious of what was to come out of his mouth next. "Tomorrow there's going to be a party... They're celebrating the birth of a new baby." "Great," we feigned enthusiasm. Albert caught the glimpse on our faces, which said pretty much 'so what does that mean for us'? "Well, of course we won't be able to do any workshops, but everyone will be here for the slaughter." Slaughter?!? Yes, of course, the central focus of our two-day stay with the Lisu would be on the slaughter of two massive pigs, their butchering, preparation and finally, feast.
Over a nice breakfast of fruit and tea the next morning, we all watched as a bunch of Lisu men gathered around the edge of the pig-pen. Mara retreated to our room to avoid what was coming. I thought I'd stick around for a while.
The men schmoozed for a while, and then very non-chalantly approached the wooden fence of the pen. A younger man entered and lured the pigs over to the corner when "the executioner," a spear-handed Lisu, lifted the 3 meter spear over the fence and jabbed into the heart of pig #1.
The pigs fled to the other side of the pen, and after about 5 minutes, pig #1 made his last dive into the mud. Blood spurting from his punctured side, he gasped his last breath and expired, falling sacrifice to the village and the birth of a new baby.
I had to stop for a second and take in the scene. In all my days of vegetarianism, and working at Ken's Diner, I never had the misfortune of watching a live slaughter. I have seen it on the internet with all the scandals of the kosher slaughter houses, but truth is, it really seemed relatively painless. I mean the pig was dead in a matter of minutes. Then I slapped myself, and thought, what could be painless about getting stabbed in the heart by a 3m spear in front of your two best friends?!?!
They then tied it's feet and tried to carry it out through the mud. (I couldn't help but be reminded of the scene from the movie Kippur where four soldiers unsuccessfully carried an injured soldier on a stretcher through the Golan heights mud).
Now relocated outside the pen, more guys came, with a home-made broom torch and began brushing the corpse with the flames. (I'll spare you the visuals)
BBQ? I thought. No no, just the way to get all the hair and skin off, Albert explained now standing by my side. Ahh, yes of course.
Now, the air filled with smoke, ash, and pigskin I raced off to check on Mara. She was busily weaving a cool belt, and had a growing audience of young and old Lisu, visibly amused by her discomfort. I made my way back, to find no less than thirty ceremonially dressed Lisu women, who had butchered and dissected the sacrifice and were now busy carving, roasting, boiling and frying different pork parts leaving nothing to waste. Impressive.
Not too long afterwards, lunch was served. Pork stirfry, chili, grizzle, stew, and soup spread the smorgasbord. Like Woody Allen at Thanksgiving dinner in Annie Hall, we walked through the suare mustering up all of our strength to feel excited. Getting increasingly more difficult to decline the continuous bowls shoved in our face of unidentifiable pieces of pig #1 (and yes, pig #2 was decidedly done in as well), we setted for a bowl of rice, a Laotian "Leo" 40oz beer with ice and some pineapple. "I guess there's not really a veggie option today," offered Albert not too sympathietically. "I guess not," I replied.
Later that night, Mara and I tried to remeber what non-pork smelling air smelled like, began to debreif.
We were disgusted, reaffirmed our vegetarianism and Kashrut, yet thought that Barbara Kingsolver would have approved of the whole thing. Despite the gross understatement of this not being for us, the food was local, no waste, no factory processing, and basically no carbon footprint for a feast of over 60 people. I have to say that if few people who eat meat, actually have the stomach to kill it themselves. The Lisu, like many 3rd world cultures have a little to teach us all. Don't get me wrong, I am avidly against eating animals or killing them. The day long pig slaughter and pork-fest was one of my worst experiences ever, but did give me food for thought (as I didn't really eat anything else) about the importance of what we eat.
We were quite anxious about going to stay with the Lisu Hilltribe, and weren't sure what to expect. We settled in to their guest room, and began to... learn.
I ventured towards a massage course with Susannon the Lisu matriarch of our host family. Her massage to me was nice, and then her brief instruction of "ok, now you do." Awkward, to say the least.
As I finsihed giving my massage to a 50-something Lisu woman, I hobbled down the stairs to find Mara hunched over a work table slaving away at what was to become a beautiful silver ring. Mara worked with Albert (Susannon's husband of 5 years). A 68 year-old American Expat, Albert brings his incredible skills as a psychotherapist, professional jewelry designer, yoga and meditation instructor, engineer, organic farmer, and business developer to the Lisu village. Of all his skills, speaking Lisu is not one of them. And Susannon, a mother of many, grandmother to even more, holistic healer, masseuse, clothing designer, rice farmer, cook and more doesn't speak English.
I guess with all those skills who needs a common language???
So Albert comes to us, and says "hey, you're in luck!" We were, to say the least, cautious of what was to come out of his mouth next. "Tomorrow there's going to be a party... They're celebrating the birth of a new baby." "Great," we feigned enthusiasm. Albert caught the glimpse on our faces, which said pretty much 'so what does that mean for us'? "Well, of course we won't be able to do any workshops, but everyone will be here for the slaughter." Slaughter?!? Yes, of course, the central focus of our two-day stay with the Lisu would be on the slaughter of two massive pigs, their butchering, preparation and finally, feast.
Over a nice breakfast of fruit and tea the next morning, we all watched as a bunch of Lisu men gathered around the edge of the pig-pen. Mara retreated to our room to avoid what was coming. I thought I'd stick around for a while.
The men schmoozed for a while, and then very non-chalantly approached the wooden fence of the pen. A younger man entered and lured the pigs over to the corner when "the executioner," a spear-handed Lisu, lifted the 3 meter spear over the fence and jabbed into the heart of pig #1.
The pigs fled to the other side of the pen, and after about 5 minutes, pig #1 made his last dive into the mud. Blood spurting from his punctured side, he gasped his last breath and expired, falling sacrifice to the village and the birth of a new baby.
I had to stop for a second and take in the scene. In all my days of vegetarianism, and working at Ken's Diner, I never had the misfortune of watching a live slaughter. I have seen it on the internet with all the scandals of the kosher slaughter houses, but truth is, it really seemed relatively painless. I mean the pig was dead in a matter of minutes. Then I slapped myself, and thought, what could be painless about getting stabbed in the heart by a 3m spear in front of your two best friends?!?!
They then tied it's feet and tried to carry it out through the mud. (I couldn't help but be reminded of the scene from the movie Kippur where four soldiers unsuccessfully carried an injured soldier on a stretcher through the Golan heights mud).
Now relocated outside the pen, more guys came, with a home-made broom torch and began brushing the corpse with the flames. (I'll spare you the visuals)
BBQ? I thought. No no, just the way to get all the hair and skin off, Albert explained now standing by my side. Ahh, yes of course.
Now, the air filled with smoke, ash, and pigskin I raced off to check on Mara. She was busily weaving a cool belt, and had a growing audience of young and old Lisu, visibly amused by her discomfort. I made my way back, to find no less than thirty ceremonially dressed Lisu women, who had butchered and dissected the sacrifice and were now busy carving, roasting, boiling and frying different pork parts leaving nothing to waste. Impressive.
Not too long afterwards, lunch was served. Pork stirfry, chili, grizzle, stew, and soup spread the smorgasbord. Like Woody Allen at Thanksgiving dinner in Annie Hall, we walked through the suare mustering up all of our strength to feel excited. Getting increasingly more difficult to decline the continuous bowls shoved in our face of unidentifiable pieces of pig #1 (and yes, pig #2 was decidedly done in as well), we setted for a bowl of rice, a Laotian "Leo" 40oz beer with ice and some pineapple. "I guess there's not really a veggie option today," offered Albert not too sympathietically. "I guess not," I replied.
Later that night, Mara and I tried to remeber what non-pork smelling air smelled like, began to debreif.
We were disgusted, reaffirmed our vegetarianism and Kashrut, yet thought that Barbara Kingsolver would have approved of the whole thing. Despite the gross understatement of this not being for us, the food was local, no waste, no factory processing, and basically no carbon footprint for a feast of over 60 people. I have to say that if few people who eat meat, actually have the stomach to kill it themselves. The Lisu, like many 3rd world cultures have a little to teach us all. Don't get me wrong, I am avidly against eating animals or killing them. The day long pig slaughter and pork-fest was one of my worst experiences ever, but did give me food for thought (as I didn't really eat anything else) about the importance of what we eat.
Saturday, July 04, 2009
Yoga and Luxury
This week has been filled with both. We decided to hang around Chiang Mai and take a Yoga intensive course. I definitely feel more centered and aligned and am hungry for more.
We have really felt honeymoonish by treating ourselves to the amazing luxury of a 5 star stay at Le Meridien Chiang Mai. I know, we could almost not believe it ourselves. Nothing much more to say about it than a slight upgrade from $8/night hostels.
This week has been interesting, as we had an hour long talk with a defected Syrian activist currently living in Sweden, and spent time with Chiang Mike - an EIE alum and human rights worker living here working with the Burmese community.
We are now off to a quiet hippy-artsy town called Pai an then on to a two-day stay with the Lisu HillTribe to learn their crafts and culture. I will write more next weekend from the Islands!
Shavua Tov.
In other news....
'Iran nuke could wipe Israel off map in seconds'
Ok, yeah, sounds good. Anyone else mildly concerned about this?!?!?
This week has been filled with both. We decided to hang around Chiang Mai and take a Yoga intensive course. I definitely feel more centered and aligned and am hungry for more.
We have really felt honeymoonish by treating ourselves to the amazing luxury of a 5 star stay at Le Meridien Chiang Mai. I know, we could almost not believe it ourselves. Nothing much more to say about it than a slight upgrade from $8/night hostels.
This week has been interesting, as we had an hour long talk with a defected Syrian activist currently living in Sweden, and spent time with Chiang Mike - an EIE alum and human rights worker living here working with the Burmese community.
We are now off to a quiet hippy-artsy town called Pai an then on to a two-day stay with the Lisu HillTribe to learn their crafts and culture. I will write more next weekend from the Islands!
Shavua Tov.
In other news....
'Iran nuke could wipe Israel off map in seconds'
Ok, yeah, sounds good. Anyone else mildly concerned about this?!?!?
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