Thursday, July 30, 2009

In Search of Paradise...

We left Chiang Mai and flew to Phuket (pronounced "Pook-ket" not "fuck-it"). After a two-hour flight we took a four hour bus ride through a beautiful sunset landscape. Through jungle terrain and jutting limestone karsts we made it to the port city of Suratthani to board our night boat for the islands.
We were slightly apprehensive of the night boat, but with wood floor panels lined with mattresses and pillows and a few friendly backpackers turned out to be great.

We arrived on Koh Samui, got settled in a cheap hotel which was nice with , cable, fridge, and pool. Koh Samui is beautiful and hot, ad has some exquisite beaches. The town of Chaweng is very built up and reminded me of Cancun. We drove around on our motorbike and were essentially there for Chabad, or a place for Shabbat dinner.

Chabad is very interesting. I have mentioned it before during our time in Chiang Mai, and I appreciate the services they offer. What is more interesting than the Chabadniks (who were basically predictable) is the Israeli sociology. A full melting pot of Israeli society, with families, post-army backpackers, honeymooners, short term holiday vacationers, and a few local sun-washed yordim. During the davening, it was apparent that most felt comforatble in a synagogue setting, and it was done in a normal Israeli (mizrachi) nusah. It was at dinner that the painful divisions in society became evident.

We had previously sat with a nice dati family from Nataf, two ex-Yeshiva girls from Kiryat Malachi, and now that the flood of diners entered the restaurant area we found ourselves sitting with obviously secular Jews with little tolerance for ritual or basic familiarity with the Erev Shabbat ceremony.
With camera, cell phone and cigarettes in full view on the table, we returned after hand washing to notice that many of the salatim (first course) were consumed. Sitting quietly and patiently - ok, I wanted to gesture politely to signal that there was one more bracha before we chow, but Mara gave me a glare that said 'get off your high horse' and just leave them alone' - we waited for motzi and the rest of the food to be served. Two sisters in their 30s, two female officers on furlough, and two recent law graduates, all made conversation and exchanged stories. We were particularly intrigued by a couple, who was reported to be just friends. She - a late 20s, nachalot resident, married with no ring. He - an almost thirty, haredi, Ashdodite. They, sharing a room, and partakers of a Friday night shopping spree. Conclusion: sketchy.
I was annoyed at some Israelis who couldn't bring themselves to indulge in zmirot and dvar torah in exchange for the free meal they were getting, and found myself making an attempt to sing along, and engage in words of Torah.
Mara, justly, reminded me that I was not the madrich or staff person here.

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After a nice but overpriced boat tour of the Au Thong archipelago (including snorkeling, Kayaking, a short hike, and nerve-racking wave ridden boat ride), we made our way to Ko Phangan.

Despite the pouring rain and night in a cheap hostel, we scoured the island for the best deal and found a 600 baht/night ($20) hotel with fridge, cable tv, aircon, hot shower, and pool (with swim up bar) right on the beach. Ahh, we could finally relax. Our time was now spent between the pool, the beach, restaurants showing movies and round the clock episodes of "Friends", cards, and a little shopping. At night, watched more movies, and drank buckets of alcohol on the beach while watching fire shows (Thai guys baton twirling flame ensconsed sticks) with our new friends Oren and Liat.

I bumped in to Yarko from my maale adumim volleyball team, and we ran the beach courts for an afternoon. Life here was good.
We were now ready to head on for Krabi Ko Phi Phi, and the rest.

After a little accident with a rode bike, we made our way through the rain to another night boat.

Traveling in Thailand is defnitely easy and convenient, however we were never sure when the scam was coming. Our bus to Krabi left us at a bus station in the middle of nowhere now being asked to pay more money for a ride to our destination. In truth it wasn't too big of a deal, and let that be the (2nd) worse thing that happens to us.

Krabi (Au Nang beach) is probably one of the most beautiful places I have been. With massive limestone karsts jutting out from the ocean and pointing throught landscape, it's no wonder that the adhacebnt Rai lay beach has become the far east's rock climbing Mecca.

We spent a few days there, and then a couple of less fun days on the picture-esque but pricy Ko Phi Phi.
We decided to ditch Ko Phi Phi for Khao Sok national park. Staying in a much more affordable place we were greeted by monkeys on our balcony which was cool.

The next day we hiked through the national park rain forest, and spent most of the time under a heavy down pour. So, that's why they call it a "RAIN forest".

From there we went on to Khao Lok, where we ended our honeymoon with a stay the 5-star Le Meridien resort. There we pampered oursleves with a fantastic room, rain forest shower, good cable, pools, beach and work out room (basically all the things that nice hotels have for those who have been, and that backpackers are in awe.) We had some serious relaxing, windsurfing, yoga and the sun even came out a bit.

It was really the perfect end to our 5 weeks sojourn in Thailand. After a few days, we made our way back to Phuket, and flew to Bangkok. In Bangkok we ran errands, shopped at the largest market in Asia - available only on the weekends - and lots of internet.

Sadly, Mara departed for New York, and now I am on my own. More to come.

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