Bye Bye Bangkok...

I've had enough. I returned to the polluted streets of sin city for a three day stint to close out my time in Thailand. Basically running errands, internet and last minute shopping were on my agenda.

Coming from the sun soaked beach and tropics of Krabi, Bangkok was a complete buzz kill.

~Highlights~

1. "Whoever has not seen the Chatuhcak (JJ) weekend market - is as if he has never seen a market in all of his days" (to paraphrase Talmudic descriptive phraseology). It really is simply baffling. A massive concacetation of stalls and shops selling anything from used 1988 Air Jordans to kitchen utensils to everything you can only imagine and don't need. I, of course, did some damage. Bargaining led to fatigue, and my worn out wit resorted to deciding on price and just handing over the sweaty bills while taking the merchandise. As I am sure you can imagine many a "this-is-really-cool-in-Thailand-but-nowhere-else" purchase transpired.

2. Chabad. Yes, they made it to #2 on the highlight list - and not only for the free internet drinking water and leftovers. Shabbat at Chabad Bangkok is an experience. I made it for Kabbalat Shabbat and then for dinner. Chabad dinners are all the same, yet the unpredictable hiddush here was "round II." The faithful core who didn't escape to the night market or nightlife post-Birkat Hamazon, were all invited to the Rabbi's quarters (think, East Wing, White House) for another Four Course Meal! Yep, that's right. With Red Label for toasting, I joined the ranks of Chabad's inner circle. This Orthodox backpacker secret society told stories, belted out niggunim, and gave (largely pointless) divrei Torah. Needless to say, an impressive operation.

3. "It's my last night, I'm a rock star!"
"Well, why not," I said to myself, as I sat for a while at an outdoor cafe/bar one block from the bustling and drunken thoroughfare of Khao San Rd. I had been listening to the live performer do justice to many a classic rock and pop hit, as he began to pluck out the opening rift of "Wish You Were Here."
"You know, anyone can jam with him," explained Duncan, a Canadian law student studying in Hong Kong. "Really," I asked hesitatingly. And with that I grabbed the spare guitar, plugged in, and jammed for the ext half hour, covering Pink Floyd, blues (E. Clapton), and my rendition of [my standard repertoire] "Tangled Up in Blue". Sadly, no one caught me on film or photo, so you'll just have to take my word for it. It was great fun, and the crowd of inebriated and musically noviced tourists boosted my ego and satisfied a lone tourist on his final hoorah.



I have reached the capital of the Western World - New York City, and have enjoyed so far, early morning jogs in Central Park (sorry, Dani and Sylvia - I'll where a shirt next time). Mexican Food, Indian Food, Ice Aroma, Upper East Side Houmous (should be an entry all to itself), good Italian wine and Bruschetta, Pizza, and diner style free re-fill coffee.

Dani and Sylvia have been the hosts with the most, and I will write more after Ben and Elizabeth's wedding!

Taking the Fall
It was really just a matter of time. Every climber, at some point or another passes this threshold into wo/manhood. Some do it earlier rather later, and some just embrace it when it happens, hoping to escape with minimal damage and trauma. It's the kind of thing that is better to take place without prior knowledge or prep, and definitely one of those things that you tell your mom about de post facto.

It happened to a fellow French climber called Jean, who was working a tough 6c. I was above him and to the right squatting on a tufa, and the next thing I knew his feet were kicking air upwards, arms flailing and shoulders banging rock. He was out for 3 days with a pulled back, and I, helplessly, watched it all happen.
Of course conventional Top roping, leaves little to worry about in the way of falling. climbers can adopt the nonchalant mellow approach and assume the sometimes necessary risk of reaching far or even jumping for the next jug. Lead climbing, however, is an entirely different story. The falls, while eventually protected, can accumulate a distance of 5 to even 10 meters (depending on the elasticity of the rope, and the belayers preparedness).

My trial by fall came on Tuesday, as I was working a beach front 6b. I was one move away from passing the crux and finishing the route. My arms were aching, and palms sweatier than a sumo wrestler in a sauna. I had gotten the quickdraw in the next bolt and just had to clip in. Apparently easier said than done. I had practised the moves and had the necessary beta (climbing slang for "info") to accomplish the move. I reached right hand (two fingers) into a crack, feet plainly gripping a polished almost marble-esque surface and left hand up to the shelf. Then a right hand match. I was all set to clip. I grabbed the rope held it in my teeth for more slack, and reached up with north paw for the unbearable relief of the clip. With rope between thumb and forefinger I fumbled lamely like a skier trying to thread a needle with his mittens on. Drenching the sand below me with warm salty liquid I just couldn't get it.

"C'mon, C'mon, you got it!" a small crowd shouted at me from below. I had now left Mike (my climbing partner and current belayer) holding me for an unfairly long time. I had to get it. one more second of forearm burn, and I was going to just cheat and grab the quickdraw itself! In my head, I thought I had it as well, and a last second effort to get that rope through the god forsaken gate of a lone carabiner, which meant more to me now than had ever before, looked good... and then I was off.

Stomach in my throat, loss of breath, and a lone yelping expletive having something to do with unlawful carnal knowledge - sent me the full length of two bolts plus another meter or two of stretch, Mike almost into the wall, and the modest gathering of spectators and passers by into a unanimous "Holy Sh*&, nice fall man!"

It was just my time. And, not to disappoint, my time came again on Wednesday, my final climbing day. On a tufa/stalactite filled 6a+ in an area called the nest, I took another 7-8 meter fall. This time, my aching biceps slippery swollen digits, almost sent me decking. Zach, my chain smoking tattooed Australian belayer, was not prepared for such a sudden descent. As my groin neared his shoulder (Bruno-Eminem style) he luckily escaped with only a cut toe.

The 6b I finished, the 6a+ I didn't. (I did do another short but challenging 6a just to finish on a high note).

And such concluded my climbing adventure in Ton Sai. I can't say that I have mastered anything. I felt a minor, but significant improvement, and let's just say that there are no lack of climbs that fall under the category of "we'll get that one next time," including the 5 pitch famous 'humanality'. Needless to say, I loved the climbing, and the atmosphere. The people were alright as well. I will miss the omelet-on-rice breakfast at "The rendez-vous" - a small fly infested shack which everyone knows as 'chicken-mama,' coffee and books at Pyramid, and fire twirling and slack-line shows and Changing out at Small World bar. I owe Mike a debt of gratitude for supplying the rope, quickdraws, safety sling, and quarry fills of chalk. He was a great encouragement and overall superb climbing partner. From one former camp counselor to another, thanks man.

Scary Monkey
So, sitting at 'chicken-mama' for breakfast the other morning, and business was usual. I placed my omelet order, and joined the ranks at the bamboo tables and chairs. Pretty soon I looked up to a small commotion, and a Mama-Monkey had jumped down on the table and made off with the dregs of someones bowl of muesli! The whole bowl and everything. After licking it clean, the monkey returned. It casually sauntered over to my table, hopped up, looked around and sat down on my camera.
Now, in my infinite wisdom, and excellent judgment decided to gently remove my Canon power shot from its pink cheeks (no surgery required). Feeling something slightly unusual, it turned around, made eye contact, and from about half a meter away ROARED at me with full fangs and scary attack face and all! Nearly soiling myself, I jumped back, screamed a little, and watched it run away from a barrage of rocks and banana peels, courageously saving me from having to throw down (I don't think it would have waited for me to dig out my leatherman and find the right tool of defence). My heart was racing, and it took some time to regain my composure. So the next time a big mother monkey sits on your camera, well, let it!

Deep Water Soloing

Nothing gives a rush more than climbing up the face of a cliff - just you and the rock, no ropes harness, or belay - and then jumping off! The 15 meter fall off the cliff landed me in a forceful thrust deep down in the ocean. The human mind is indeed an interesting thing. For the past few weeks I have been training myself that despite ropes and belayers, I want to do everything in my power to NOT fall. I hang, suspend, even dangle from the rock but really make a concerted effort to not fall. Now I'm standing on an edge over looking the glimmering sea, the rest of the days group in a long-tail boat watching and cheering me on. I go to jump... and, nothing! I had locked my arm to an undercling, and it wouldn't let me go. My mind just wouldn't let me throw myself of the wall. Finally after some coaxing and unecessary build-up I launched out into the great abyss. Absoutely the greatest thrill. I swam over to the boat and relished in my minor accomplishment.

The afternoon showed us crystal clear waters stretching across beautiful white sands, and some more slightly more challenging climbing. I was one of the few to make it up a dangling rope ladder and then climb up a giant protruding tufa.

All in all, one of the best experiences I've had here, and one I definitely recommend.
I loved it so much in fact that today we (myself, Tara, Mike an Kristen) rented Kayaks and paddled out to the same area. The rope was still dangling so Mike nd I climbed up and took some head-first dives off the rock! Incredible.
I have only two more days of climbing here in Ton Sai, and will spend them trying to comfortably lead 6b (5.10d) level climbs. Then off to Bangkok and New York City!

Sawasdee Kap!

The Meaning of Climbing

Standing up, locked in to my safety sling, at the top of a challenging 6a today, I looked out at the Andaman Sea and the massive rock faces sandwiching the beach. I had made it to the top. It was sketchy climb, with few good hand-holds, and required a lot of balance, leg work and confidence. But hey, it was at the top!
"If we cared about getting to the top so much, we'd build a ladder," goes a popular axiom often quoted here in Ton Sai. True. This climb was less about getting to the top, then developing the confidence building skills that allow me to balance precariously on a toe while blindly scrambling for some hole, crimp or pinch to get a few fingers on.

Not that I have "it," but I feel myself slowly getting "it". I fell and couldn't finish a top-roped 6b today, but (sort of) onsighted a tough 6a+ bereft of any significant foot holds (a huge shout-out and 'danke' to my new Swiss friend Sven for hooking me up with liquid chalk - aka magic! - for which without, this route, I'm convinced would not have been possible). A good feeling. A feeling of knowing that every climb brings me one step closer to having the strength, experience and confidence level necessary to advance.

Is this a metaphor for life?
Probably. So much of life is based on getting through uncomfortable situations. Being afraid of the unknown, the probably-too-difficult, and the potentially scary - that each success, or each time we find the strength and the confidence to go for it so to speak, is feeling of great accomplishment.

ראה
As I stood spread eagle over two rock faces, I couldn't help be reminded of this morning's parsha. As Bnei Yisrael walked in between Mts. Gerizim and Aibal, they heard that oneside offered blessings, the other curses. I too, knew that I would have to choose between two sides, two faces. Would I reach out for a blessing or acquiesce for the lesser "curse". Just a short antecdote, and let's hope we all choose correctly.

Shavua tov.

6a+

Yesterday, Mike and I headed up to firewall on Ton Sai beach and did a nice 6a called "groove tube". I am working on my leading technique and doing alright with it. We then led a tougher 6a+ (5.10b) which after slipping off once, I finally got it! There was a tough maneuver, and I felt pretty good about it. One of the best feelings in the world. As a reward, I treated myself to a nalgene full of electrolytes and pad thai in a bag!

I then went to meet a good friend Tara. It was really nice to hang out and to catch up with her, and to have company here.

The culture here in Ton Sai is nice. It reminds me a lot of high school, and that there are different cliques - I even told someone that they are the Zach Morris of the Max or the Brandon of the Peach Pit. I usually eat breakfast at a place called Pyramid or a 40 baht omelette at Chicken Mama's.
And have become a big fan of 10 baht pad thai in a little baggy, which we call lunchable pad thai.
In the evening the transient expat climber crowd finds its way to a bar called "small world" where the Thai bar tenders amaze the tipsy clientel with there fireshows and slack-line acrobatics. It is seriously impressive.

I am enjoying my time here and working on the climbing. Tomorrow may see a Deep Water Solo climbing experience, but will make a game time call.

Off to hit the walls...

Multi-Pitching

Today I learned how to multi-pitch! I practiced on the ground a few times, and then set it up on my own after leading up a 5a climb. My guide Koas, followed me up and then we snappeled down. It was pretty cool to get all of the technicalities down.
That pretty much concludes my course, and now I'm on my own to climb. I've already met a prospective climbing partner and should be good.

I am posting more photos on picasa to check out!

Breaking New Ground

Today I led a 6a (5.10a) climb! For the first time in my life, I led a 6a. I was pissed because I couldn't make it this morning, and then this afternoon I nailed it. Alright, my guide said it was an easy 6a but hey, I did it.

I felt like quite the failure this morning after insisting on being lowered in light scraping my fingertips open and bleeding on the rock, but I guess no pain no gain.
Now with taped up fingers I went back to lead a few 5b's (5.8,5.9) and then got the easy 6a.

Hope is not lost.

Krabi and Climbing

After traveling for close to 18 hours by bus, minivan, and long tail boat I arrived on the coast of Ton Sai, Asia's climbing mecca. It is a sleepy strip of beach bookended by limestone karsts and built in between the white sands and steadily developed jungle. It is low-season here which means that many bars and restaurants are temporarily closed and prices have plummeted! I found a hostel for 150 baht ($5) - which I've since upraged to a nicer room for the same price. Ton Sai is only accessible by boat and to get to nearby Rai Lay (West) beach one must either scramble over the monkey trail of rock and jungle or wade through shin deep ocean along the coast - only during low tide. The views of foliage carpeted rock jutting out of the water or beach are breathtaking. I could sit and stare all day, and a plethora of people actually do.

The name of the game here is climbing, and the view people who don't climb are looked at with a glance of "oh ok, so what are you doing here?!?!" - which no one would actually come out and say because everyone is so nice and polite, seriously.

I decided to go the route of an actual guided course, which being more expensive is a gamble but has been good so far. I went with King Climbers who, so far, have been professional and solid. I started out top roping on 5 and 6a climbs (about 5-8 and 5-10 in North American terms) and even began lead climbing.

Leading is an entirely different ballgame. Every move really matters. I am hesitant to slip and fall victim to a 2-5 meter drop, possibly leading me body first back into the rock. So far I have only led level 5 climbs which allows me to learn the technique and become familiar with leading before attempting anything more serious.
After two days of climbing, my fingers have been cut up on the sharp rock faces and my muscles are pretty sore. Tomorrow will be another full day and hopefully I will have more strength.

There are of course climbers of all walks and skill level. I'm not alone in my mediocrity, but this morning I witnessed two guys ascend a 6 pitch, level 7a multi-pitch face over the beach of Ton Sai called "humanality". I was awe-struck, vanquished to stares and gapes in full admiration.

Ton Sai's climbing (as well as adjacent Rai Lay) possess a mystical powering luring and capturing people into extended stays. I have met many a traveler who explained that they were meant to carry on, but "got stuck" here. The travelers here are somewhat diverse, but the majority are Brits, Germans, Canadiennes, French, Scandinavian, Dutch, a few Americans and the occasional Israeli (not here for the climbing). People are great, open and inviting, and I even met a Swiss woman who had previously done the Green Apprenticeship on Kibbutz Lotan (and couldn't fathom that I had heard of it and even knew some of the same people)!

Everything is chill here in Rai Lay and Ton Sai, and I will write more on my climbing progress.